What Is a Farsetto? The 15th-Century Italian Doublet

The farsetto is the fitted, lined upper garment of 14th- and 15th-century Italian menswear. In English the same kind of garment is called a doublet, and in French a pourpoint. If you see a man in a short, tight top and colourful hose in a 15th-century Italian fresco, he is almost certainly wearing a farsetto.

What Is a Farsetto For?

The farsetto is the layer worn over the shirt, and it has two important jobs. First, it shapes the upper body: the fashion of the time favoured a close-fitting silhouette, slightly padded at the chest and slim at the waist. Second, the hose are tied to it. Fifteenth-century hose were not held up by a belt but tied to the lower edge of the farsetto with points, laces tipped with metal aiglets. That is why the farsetto has to fit well: if it is too loose or too long, the hose will not sit properly.

How Was It Worn?

Working men and young men often wore the farsetto on its own as their outer garment. Others wore a giornea, a longer coat or a cloak over it. In the second half of the century the farsetto became shorter and shorter, often reaching only to the waist. Our striped farsetto follows the frescoes of the Castle of Issogne and is cut exactly this short, so it holds the hose comfortably.

Farsetto, Doublet, Pourpoint, Gambeson: What Is the Difference?

Farsetto: the Italian name. A fitted, lined, often quilted upper garment to which the hose are tied.
Doublet and pourpoint: the English and French names for the same type of garment. The cut changed from region to region and decade to decade, but the role stayed the same.
Gambeson: a heavily padded protective garment, worn under armour or on its own. It is much thicker and heavier than a farsetto.
Arming doublet: a doublet made to be worn with armour. Short and fitted, with holes at the neck and sleeves for tying on the harness.

What to Look for When Choosing a Farsetto

The first question is which decade and region you portray. The second is comfort. The original of our Italian farsetto is on display at the Museo Civico in Fano, and we based our pattern on it. Its special feature is the shaped elbow: when you wear it, it feels as if the farsetto were supporting your arms. Our standard version is quilted horizontally, which we find more stable, but the original vertical quilting can be requested. Both of our farsettos are made of wool with a linen lining, and they can be ordered in other fabrics too.

If you need a sleeveless version, our 15th-century vest is essentially a sleeveless farsetto. For wearing under armour we recommend the Italian arming doublet.

Size

A farsetto only works if it fits precisely. Ease is already built into our patterns, so please do not add extra centimetres when you measure. You will find the details in our measuring guide.